Westward Ho!

After leaving Ft. Worth, TX, we traveled to Hobbs, NM and on to Santa Fe.  Our target destination was the state park outside Santa Fe at the edge of the Santa Fe National Forrest.  Once we arrived we realized there were no campsites big enough for the Whale.  Nor were there any spaces wide enough to turn the Whale with Jeep around.  So we continued up the mountain - 10,000 feet to the ski resort at the top of the mountain, turned around, and crept back down the mountain.  A quick stop at the scenic view pull-off on this clear day gave us picture reminders of just how high we were.  If you look at the bottom of the first picture, you can see a sliver of the road dropping off down the mountain.  That's steep!  Jerry says the trick is to not let the Whale go to fast and at the same time don't get on the brakes too often.  How would I know?  I had my eyes closed.

 Once we were down around 8,000 ft we secured a spot for the Whale in the National Forrest Campground just south of the State Park.  No hook ups, but a beautiful spot. I again had a new experience in this location - altitude  sickness. Ugh!  The least little bit of exertion made breathing difficult.  Of course I went to the Internet for diagnosis and solution - go to a lower altitude... duh.  We did that the next day spending most of our time in Santa Fe.  What a unique city.  We had lunch at the Blue Chip and dinner at La Choza.  Both meals gave us a chance to experience local cuisine.

Santa Fe National Forrest, NM... on top of the world.

Our time in Santa Fe was too short, and the area is now on our list of places to return.  I was particularly drawn to the adobe structures - which most are.  Both color and form blend into the landscape around Santa Fe.  Our time in the downtown area showed us more of the same.  Fortunately, we had too little time to stop and wander the shops in the downtown area...  I probably saved a lot of money. 

After two days in Santa Fe, we continued west on 264 avoiding the Interstates for now.  We stopped for the night at the Hopi Cultural Center just west of Keames Canyon.  An overnight stay turned into 2 1/2 days.  Luck would have it that we met another full time couple while at the Cultural Center while walking our dogs.  Sandy and Orlan had scheduled a tour with a Hopi guide the next day and invited us to join them.  Bertrand met us the next morning, and we traveled to our first stop - the Prophesy Rock.  Bertrand detailed the meanings of the petroglyth which was thousands of years old predicting the future - some of which has already come to pass.

Bertrand was a wealth of knowledge not only about the Hopi culture, past and present, but he also made multiple connections between other cultures and his ancient culture.  Interestingly, he spent the first seven years of his life with his mother and father in an urban area in southern CA.  He returned to his native village Old Oraibi with his mother at age seven.  He admitted this was quite a culture shock, but the move was ultimately for the better.  He is now working his way toward the "man society" as he gains knowledge and continues to share his culture with visitors to the area.  The Hopi in this process are the ultimate life long learners.  They believe no one ever knows everything.  The elders disperse knowledge to the younger men a little at a time in keeping with this philosophy.

Bertrand then took us to the other side of the Second Mesa to his home village, Old Oraibi.  We were restricted from taking pictures of the village, and we were only able to visit a small portion of the village.  We did get to see the central area of the village where the kiva was located.  This kiva, or ceremonial lodge, was underground.  There was a large ladder made out of tree trunks that gave access to the kiva.  We were not allowed access to that area for understandable reasons.  In the early 1900's photographers were allowed access to ceremonial proceedings and areas, and it become very clear to the Hopi people that if continued, they would be invaded.  Around this time, restrictions were put in place.  In my mind, how wise the Hopis were to restrict photographs and observations.  They have been able to preserve some of the deepest meanings of their ways. 

From the village we walked a ways across the top of the mesa to an area where there were many petroglyths along a pathway that winds around the upper portion of the mesa.  We were allowed to take pictures here.  As you can see, the pictures show the striking contrast of stone and sky, but do not do justice to the petroglyths that have survived centuries. 

It's not too hard to imagine the Hopi living in the caves of these areas even before villages were constructed.  The elevation of the mesas served as protection against invaders.  As our guide explained, the Hopi's are not aggressive people.  They do believe in peace, but were not afraid to defend themselves when necessary

We walked the path around the top of the mesa.  I have to say that my fear of heights was diminished by the sheer striking beauty of the landscape...  and a good solid rock to hang onto.

 Once we left the mesa and returned to the village, we were able to step inside a dwelling that served two purposes.  It was there to give us a glimpse of what the inside of the original structures looked like, and it was also a gift shop showcasing the jewelry and pottery of the Hopi artisans.  Again, we were unable to capture this in pictures. 

It's important to note that across all three mesas in the Hopi Land, people do reside in the villages.  Those in Old Oraibi do not have electricity as in poles and wires, but some use solar power.  There is no running water or toilets as we know it.  The fifteen or so families who still live in the village practice the ancient daily job of carrying water from a central location.  This does vary from village to village depending on how that clan has decide to adopt or not adopt different ways.

Our two hour tour turned into four hours.  Exhausted and overwhelmed with information, we said good-by to Bertrand with promises to send curious visitors his way.  We returned to the Cultural Center and decided to stay one more evening.  We left the next day after purchasing artifacts from the artisans who had set up tables outside the center.

We now are in a state forest campground just north of the North Rim, Grand Canyon.  The whale was able to climb yet another mountain as you can see below. 

The Whale on the road to the North Rim

A word from Maci...  You know dogs really don't like change, but it's something I have become accustomed to in order to be with my people.  I ride on the couch now, much more comfortable than the floor unless the going gets bumpy.  I prefer parks over parking lots, and I certainly prefer grass over dirt.  Sometimes I just refuse to get out of the Whale.  As long as I can keep any eye on things from the inside, I am good to go.  What an adventure this is!

Maci keeping watch from the drivers seat.