400 Mile Detour

One of the best parts of this journey is having the flexibility to make detours when necessary.  Luck would have it that my brother Ted was making a "quick" trip from Michigan to Fort Worth, TX to deliver a hand crafted rocking horse to a very dear little girl, Jewel, who is the granddaughter of his close friends, Greg and Colleen.  We were in London, AR when we found out he would make the trip, and we decided to take just  slight detour to Fort Worth in order to spend time.  We chose an Army Corps of Engineers camp just south west of Fort Worth, Holiday Campground on Benbrook Lake. We secured a camp site in a more isolated part of the park, with tons of shade trees.  The time here has been quiet, windy, hot, and did I mention windy?

We also were blessed to prepare dinner for Ted, along with Greg and Colleen as well as their son John, daughter-in-law Jennifer, and the new owner of the rocking horse, Jewel.  It was instant family! We have been in need of a heavy dose of family.  It was great!!

Our last day on Benbrook Lake has been the windiest of all.  We had been told by other travelers Texas tends to be windy.  We've only been in a small portion of a large state, but the last four days have made a believer of me.  The dory, now officially named "Sweet Pea," stayed on top of the Jeep.  We know the limitations of a little boat on a lake with lots of white caps...  We did get in long walks every day.  The park is full of fields of wild flowers.  Maci clearly loves the parks over the parking lots at Wal-Mart.  She has her happy pant on.

                                                                                             We head northwest tomorrow a.m. headed to Roswell, NM.  We plan to drive the Extraterrestrial Highway through Area 51 - which doesn't officially exist according to the Federal Government.  Usually I don't post until after we have visited an area, but since we are going to a part of the country where so many Alien sightings and abductions have been noted, we thought it best to file a "flight plan."  Seriously?  We'll see...

Before we left Red Bay...

You would think after a couple of visits to Red Bay, a very small community, there would not be much more to see.  Not so.  There is a cemetery at the very top of a hill near Red Bay called Coon Dog Cemetery.  What an interesting name for a cemetery.  It seems the name is totally accurate because the cemetery is where some bury their prized coon dogs.  Like most dog owners, the dog is an integral part of the family.  Some have more specific skills than others.  Some dogs are just part of the family.  The coon dog is bred to hunt raccoons.  The way the story was told to me is the owners take the dogs into the woods and turn them loose while the humans build a fire, drink some coffee - laced I'm sure - and listen to the dogs bark and bay as they are hunting the raccoons.  According to my source, the dog's bay changes when a raccoon is actually treed.  Then the owners go to the dogs and shoot the raccoon out of the tree.  These are working / hunting dogs that are part of the families who own them, and they are worthy of a burial  plot designated for "Coon Dogs Only."  We spent some time walking around the area, and as you can see by the pictures below each plot has flowers, and most have some type of headstone or marker.  The first dog was buried here in 1937.  From the headstones we read, the dog from furthest away was from Buffalo, New York.  Given the tributes on the markers, there is no doubt how much the dogs meant to their owners.  Some were noted as regional and national champions.
                                                                                                   

 The most recent headstone was March of 2013.  We heard about this funeral.  Over 100 people attended.  The dog was lovingly placed in a small casket, and there were a total of four pall bearers - two human and two hounds.  Yet another glimpse into the minds and hearts of others...

We discovered a new place to eat during this trip to Red Bay.  The Rattlesnake Saloon.  It's always a good idea to get out, walk around and socialize when you're waiting for service in Red Bay.  That's the only way to find out new places to visit.  The Rattlesnake Saloon is northeast of Red Bay off of Highway 24 way in the middle of nowhere.  The saloon is built in a cave.  The only way to get to the saloon is by riding down a very steep dirt road in the back of a 4x4 pick-up truck that has wooden bench seats down both sides of the bed.  The actual saloon is tucked under a small waterfall on one end of the cave.  Additional seating can be had in the cave amphitheater complete with a small stage for a band or karaoke if you go on Thursday night, or you can sit out in the terraced area.  The saloon lives up to its name with two carved rattlesnakes guarding the front door and several snake skins hanging on the walls of the inside eating area.  If you go, the Rattlesnake Saloon is only open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday.  No alcohol before 5:00 p.m. and only beer after that. 

Monsoon Season in Red Bay, AL

After leaving Three Rivers State Park, we made our way north to Red Bay, Al... AGAIN.  A disabled front furnace and leak in one of the back slides were reason to revisit Red Bay for repairs before heading west to CA.  Returning to Red Bay means we have lots of time to catch up on any in-house duties that need to be done.  It's rained every day since we got here.  Without an "official" appointment, repairs have to wait on "express bay."  There were 10 ahead of us as of last Tuesday,  and we made into express bay today.  With any luck, we'll be headed out of Red Bay by the week-end - that is if we don't drown first.

Three Rivers State Park on Lake Seminole, Sneads, FL

Our last stay in Florida was in the pan handle - Three Rivers State Park on Lake Seminole near Snead, FL.  The lake is a man made reservoir that stretches 20-30 miles.  Marsh areas with reed grass and lily pads skirt the the edges of the lake.  Wide expanses of water barely cover tree stumps that could cause a great deal of damage if a boat hit them with any force.  The water is full of wildlife... including alligators just coming out of hibernation, birds, and fish.  Of the five days we were in the state park, we spent three on the water.  We fished and toured the shores of the lake.  Yes, we fished.  I took up a pole and threw in a line.  Cat fish were on the line.  I now have a "fish that got away" story.  I knew when it hit that it was big.  When I got it close to the boat, Jerry told me it was about 10 to 15 lbs.  Of course we didn't have a fish net.  So when Jerry grabbed the line, the fish was gone in an instant - bit the line.  Better believe we have a fish net now.

Fortunately we caught others that did not get away.  There's not much better than fresh cat fish, fried potatoes and onions, and a campfire.  Five days on Lake Seminole. A great way to end our five month stay in Florida.

Lily Pad Flower

Endless shore...

Red Beaked Bird

Dew that looks like liquid diamonds.

Alligators coming out of hibernation....  Cruising by the boat.

Return to Cedar Key, FL

Sunset Isle (retro) Campground

We returned to Cedar Key on the Gulf side and decided to stay at Sunset Isle RV Park.  It's a small park sporting a small cafe with great food.  The 50's trailer painted  bright colors is indicative of the atmosphere here.   A retro RV park.  Actually, my parents owned a trailer similar to this one in size before I was born... not those same colors though.  The photo below is a picture of their trailer parked at the entrance to the Grand Canyon.  The RV travel bug must be in my blood.

Late 40's Trip to Grand Canyon... Pre-Pam

We don't have direct access to the Gulf, but there are boat ramps everywhere.  We put the dory in at Shell Mound which is an estuary at the lower Suwanee River.  What that really means is at low tide, the water gets really "skinny."  In some areas it turns to mud.  The first day we put in an hour after low tide.  Going out was a challenge, but coming in was great.  The second day we put in a couple hours before low tide.  We were dragging bottom on the way in, but no matter. Paddles work well as pole pushers.  This day Jerry caught a sea trout just long enough to keep and eat.  The day before when we put in a guy who was just coming in had bags of fresh oysters, and we bought some from him.  Trout, oysters, and pan fried onions and potatoes.  So good.

We continue to meet interesting people from all over the country , and their stories are as varied as their home locations.  Catherine and Bill from New Jersey are our neighbors right now.  Not only do they travel in their RV, they have a trawler in Florida that they will take back to New Jersey in a month or so.  Their beach house got hit hard and flooded during Hurricane Sandy, and it is being renovated now.  Jerry and I agreed that keeping track of the Whale and one small boat was enough for us.

Shell Mound Estuary of the lower Suwanee River

We had several days of wind and rain while in Cedar Key which meant we both got a lot of "inside" work done.  Maci love those days because she doesn't get stuck alone in the Whale while we go boating.  As you can see from the picture below, Maci has a corner on the rainy day power nap.

Our last day at Cedar Key, Tuesday, was sunny and very windy until late afternoon.  We made one last run into town for ice cream and a walk on the public pier.  We were treated to a show of dolphins who appeared to be playing as they traveled past the end of the pier.  Jerry and I were tempted to put the dory in at the public landing and go out with the dolphins, but we were packed to leave early the next morning.  Reluctantly, we passed.
 
Next stop, Three Rivers State Park near Snead, FL in the north central panhandle of Florida.

Crystal River State Park and Anthropological Preserve

Replica Skiff / Crystal River State Park

We woke up to grey skies and high humidity on our last day in Bushnell. Rather than sit, we decided to explore the Crystal River area about 30 miles from Bushnell.  The Crystal River State Park does not have camp sites.  It as an area for hiking and fishing.  We always check out new places for boat ramps, and as we were looking at a spot to put the dory in the river, a man by the name of Bill Wayland stopped us to admire our " Guideboat."  When not in use, our dory is strapped to the roof of the Jeep, and it tends to be a conversation starter wherever we a.  it's not unusual to be in a Walmart parking lot and have someone want to know about the boat.  Now this conversation was unusual because he's only one of two since we bought the boat who knew it was not a canoe.  We discovered Bill moved to Florida from Dayton, Ohio ten years ago.  He used to build guideboats and knew quite a bit about boats in general. His current project was with a group who build, by hand, boats that were used during the Civil War era - boats of all sizes.  The one he was working on this day was a sailing scow replica.  When fully constructed, the mast will stand 36 feet tall and wii fit in the tabernacle (the white ladder- like construction) on top of the deck.  The plan is to complete construction by late August.  Why all that hard work to build a replica?  The boat builders are working with the Crystal River Anthropological Preserve to study the construction and durability of the Civil War era boats.  They plan to use it as a teaching tool along with the other smaller boats, such as the skiff pictured below.  Bill told us they have considered sailing the scow to Cuba...  Not sure if he was kidding.  As is often true when we talk to local residents, we find out about what we are missing by not staying in one location.  The following week-end, the park was hosting a small boat gathering where people who own boats like our dory gather and talk about, well, boats.  Food, music, tent camping, and good fellowship with people who like small boats.  Unfortunately, we had to move on.

    

Sailing Scow w/ Historical Documentation

Replica Sailing Scow w/o mast

                                                                                           





















Our next stop was at the Crystal River Anthropological Preserve just a few miles from the state park.  The area had been donated to the State of Florida by three private citizens.  Dating back to 450 BC, Native American ceremonial and burial mounds were constructed along the Crystal River.  According to archeologists, the tribes that existed in this area at that time cannot be traced to any tribes in existence today.  The ceremonial and burial mounds were used until about 550 AD.  Now I will admit to an over active imagination at times, but this 14 acre area had an amazing "sense" to  it.  First, it's almost impossible to wrap my head around the time period.  As we walked the paths in the preserve that wind around and the burial and ceremonial mounds, I tired to imagine the people and artifacts they used at that time.  Some ideas have been reconstructed by archeologists - much like what the boat builders are trying to do with the Civil War era boats. 

In addition, when you put some thought to the religious import of this place to so many generations of people, it is humbling.  We are such a small part of the historical flow.

We left the preserve area to return to Bushnell and finish our packing to move on to Cedar Key and Sunset Isle RV Park.

Sarasota to Sumpter Oaks, Bushnell, FL

Our time in Sarasota was meant to be uneventful with time spent re-organizing the belly of the Whale, and chat sessions with two of my three on-line classes.  It's always best to be in an area where Internet signal is strong for those times.  We did not plan to have much to talk about while there, but interestingly enough life doesn't aways happen that way.  After an appointment on Friday morning, we went to a quirky little breakfast place called, "The Breakfast Place."  The restaurant was in a small house with an outdoor garden for additional seating.  Since it had been raining, the outdoor garden was closed.  The line was long even at 10:30 a.m.  Long lines are actually a positive sign of a good restaurant.  In fact we rarely go to a restaurant that has few cars in the parking lot.  We settled in to wait and enjoy what was turning out to be a great day.  The hostess told us if we were willing to share a table with another couple, she could seat us all at once.  Of course she asked this in front of the other couple.  We all looked at each other, shrugged shoulders and said "sure."  It's always interesting to me to think about initial reactions when these kind of things happen.  Breakfast with total strangers... uncomfortable and not really excited about breaking the breakfast routine, but we didn't want to be rude, and clearly we were all hungry.  We settled at a table for four with introductions, coffee and our orders taken.  That was the beginning of the most pleasant hour and a half we've had with total strangers.  Joan and Marshall are from Washington D.C and have a condo in Sarasota which they visit a couple times a year.  They have two daughters and four grandkids.  All live close to them in D.C.  We talked a great deal about grandkids, our travels, mother guilt, boats, motors and how good the food is at The Breakfast Place.  At first glance, this is not a rocking good time.  To me it's interesting though from a couple of perspectives...  first, we could have just as easily declined to share a table with strangers and missed a delightful hour and a half of conversation.  Second, I was reminded that staying open to possibilities is a key to what we are doing - no matter how large or small the event.  Just a slice in time.

Friday evening we returned to a "restaurant" we first discovered 4 years ago when Jerry was staying in Sarasota for medical reasons.  This night we were celebrating good health.  The Cattleman's Packing House Cafe used to be a packing house years ago.  Wood floors, old artifacts from the packing house, and an alligator head with a beer can in its mouth above the wine bottle case - all top the decor.  It's small, crowded (remember that's a good sign), loud and fun.  We got there shortly after six, and the place was packed.  That night the Florida Mountain Boys was the featured music group.  Since the group consisted of guitar, mandolin, banjo, and fiddle, you can guess the music was some great blue grass with a touch of Jimmy Buffet.  The food is your standard great burger or wings with an occasional specialty dish, but the atmosphere and music is just foot stomping fun.

Florida Mountain Boys
Cattleman's Packing House Cafe

Saturday was spent packing up, cleaning, and generally getting ready to move to Sumpter Oaks Campground in Bushnell, Fl.  Sumpter Oaks is an Escapee campground.  Escapees is an RV group with a number of campgrounds throughout the U.S.   In some, RVer's can purchase lots and rent them out when vacant.  Others are campgrounds where lots can just be rented.  If you belong to Escapees, the price per night is extremely reasonable.  We were able to stay at Sumpter Oaks for 8 days / nights for just $100.  Full hook-up.

Home Sweet Home at Sumpter Oaks

The Escapees volunteers who manage the parks are welcoming and more than helpful when getting acclimated to the area, as are the the other campers.  Our focus this week was to find water to float the dory.  Our first trip was to Withlacoochee River which runs through the Withlacoochee State Park.  It also runs south to north unlike all the other rivers in FL that run north to south.  We put the dory in a channel that runs off the river.  We tied a red line to a bush just past the opening of the channel in order to find our way back.  It's kind of the river version of bread crumbs.  By the time we rounded 3 or 4 bends in the river, we saw 7 or 8 alligators - large alligators - and Jerry had not caught a fish.  He caught a lot of sticks though.  This narrow river and large alligators were just a bit too up close and personal.  We turned back after about an hour.  Jerry tried to tell me the alligators were more scared of us than we of them.  I explained to him that I seriously doubted that!

Withlachoochee River Trip

The next day we put the boat in Silver Lake.  If we took an aerial view of the river and lake, Silver lake would look like a ballooned section in that particular leg of the Withlachoochee River.  We could have put in where we did the day before and traveled the river to the lake, but given the reptile convention in that section of the river, we chose to put in the lake directly.  The weather was warm, breezy and the lake was good sized - about a mile long and three quarters of mile wide.  Of course the first wildlife we saw when we came into the lake was an alligator on the shore.  This is Florida after all.

The lake looked as if Jerry would catch lots of fish.  All around the shore there were areas of Lilly pads, weeds and areas of rocks.  When we got back after about three hours of boating / no fish, a fisherman on shore told us the fish had lock jaw that day.  You might have noticed that my mention of fishing does not include me.  Jerry fishes, I drive the boat.  It's a match made in heaven.

Our last days at Sumpter Oaks will be spent being lazy some and working some before we pack up to return to Cedar Key.  I described Cedar Key in a much earlier post when we first came into Florida.  When we make this return trip, we will be staying at Sunset Isle right on the Gulf.  It looks like a spot straight out of the 60's with a small dock to put the dory in the water and leave it there for the 9 day stay.  We're looking forward to a return to this old fishing village, great clam chowder at Tony's, and more time on the water.

Maci enjoying time to just be a dog.