Mount Rushmore, Wind Cave, and the Badlands... We are "from" South Dakota afterall...

Before we got really serious about making a dash for Elkhart, IN, we knew we had to spend some time in South Dakota.  We had to go to Mount Rushmore - it's a national monument - top tourist attraction for Americans and folks from Canada and other countries.  Ho hum?  We were not prepared to to be awestruck, and we were.  Once again we found ourselves immersed in the history of the place - how it came to be, why in that spot, who all were involved.  Why those four presidents?  We decided to walk the many, many stairs - the presidential walk.  Fortunately, we also took the tour, renting the electronic devices that provide historical information at various points along the walk.  Let's just say, believe it when the sign says this is a strenuous walk.  We put both of our new right knees to the test.  It was all worth it at the end as we were literally standing in the "face of history."

After Mount Rushmore, we visited the yet-to-be-finished mountain sculpture of Crazy Horse.  When it was decided this sculpture would be created, the Native Americans were the decision makers.  According to the documentation, Crazy Horse was the embodiment of the spirituality of of all Native Americans.  Some of the most  interesting aspects of this monument are the work is all privately funded, and the work is overseen / done by family members of the original sculptor... who was an apprentice of the sculptor of Mount Rushmore.  The model of what the finished work will look like shows the head of Crazy Horse in full feathered head dress, on his horse, with his arm / finger pointing out over the land.  "My land is where my people are buried."  We speculated how long it would take to complete the Crazy Horse monument.  Time is not the primary issue.  Money is.  The family is committed to its completion.

The museum and educational facilities connected with the monument reflect a long range plan to preserve the history of many Native American tribes and to promote education. 

Our next venture was to Wind Cave National Park.  This park is a fascination blend of the prairies of the Black Hills and the mystery of what lies beneath the prairie.  As the story goes a young man named Alvine and his older brother were hunting one day and discovered a hole in the side of a rock hill about the size of a football.  As he leaned to look into the hole, a strong wind blew his hat off.  Alvine and his brother thought that was great fun and came back the next day to try it again.  This time when he looked into the hole, his hat was sucked into the hole.  The exploration of this "place" started, and Alvine discovered a cave that has now 144 miles of mapped channels. Scientists estimate that only one tenth of Wind Cave has been discovered.  The cave has the largest amount of box formations of any cave.  There are no  stalactites or stalagmites.  Formations that look like short honeycombs and crystals that are called snow crystals fill the cave.  I've mentioned my fear of heights, and now I share with you the dark close places don't thrill me either.  Mark off spelunking as a future career for me.  Our guide reminded us that Alvine explored and mapped a total of ten miles of Wind Cave before he died at the age of 21 - by candle light.  She turned off the electric lights that dimly lit our passage way after light one candle.  Then she blew the candle out.  We literally could not see our hand in front of our face.  I've never experienced such darkness, and it was unnerving!

Jerry fascinated with the rock formations

Boxwork formations throughout Wind Cave

 We completed our time in South Dakota as visitors in the Badlands.  Years ago, both our children went on distance running camps each summer, and Wall, SD was one of the stops.  They loved Wall Drugs.  So a stop there was a bit of our family history - plus the purchase of two t-shirts for Chris and Sara - that just had to happen.  After that stop for lunch, we traveled into the Badlands National Park and were able to find a camping spot in the park.  There are parts of the Badlands that look like we just drove on to another planet.

 During our brief stay in the Badlands, the temperature stayed well above 9 degrees.  Long range hiking for us was out of the question in that heat, but it didn't stop us exploring this unusual landscape for two days.  Time and again during our journey this year, we have been struck by how well the National Park Service has constructed so many of the parks to be user friendly.  We also appreciate how well versed the rangers are and how often they emphasize that these are OUR parks. 

An interesting note about the sunset picture...  I'm really into sunsets and often shoot short time lapsed pictures as the sun appears to rush to sink below the earth's skyline.  I never have issues with focus.  I tried several shots with both my camera and my phone and could not get one to focus.  My untested theory is there is a strange atmospheric disturbance in the Badlands causing this hazy result in photography...  The Badlands does look like another planet after all.

Our last stop before heading to Sioux Falls was at the Minuteman Missile Site which is now a National Park.  The tour which is a must do includes a tour of the decommissioned D-9 control building and a self guided tour with cell phone recording of the actual site where a training sample of a Minuteman 2 missile is housed.  It was at this site I confirmed my belief that no U.S. history should be taught in a classroom. Field studies of one to two years should be taken by all high school students to learn, in the field, about their country.  Financial support of this idea is yet to be worked out...

We learned from a young ranger with a degree in history what it is like to be a missilear - working 24 hour shifts on watch.  We learned of the incredible protocol connected to missile defense in the U.S. The space provided the missilears below ground was half the size of our motor home.  The young ranger challenged us to think about being the persons (it takes two at one site along with a partner site) to launch the missiles.  Each missilear knew that in  the event of a nuclear strike, their job, and their value to the country was over.  This last visit was chilling as well as humbling.

After a brief overnight in Sioux Falls to pick up mail (Alternative Resources), eat at HuHot Mongolian Restaurant and check out our favorite sporting goods store, we are headed back to Elkhart for some much needed time with family and friends. Soon... Pam

Glacier National Park, Mount Rushmore, The Wind Cave, The Badlands

Our  trip to Glacier National Park had tremendous value added because our close friends John and Sueann took the train from Elkhart, IN to meet us in Kallispell, MT.  We enjoyed 5 days of exploring Glacier from as many different angles as possible.  We parked the Whale at the Elks in Kallispell, and John and Sueann stayed a mile away in a villa.  Every day was a different adventure starting with a trip to Whitefish Mountain where we took the ski lift to the top.  As I've mentioned before, I am deathly afraid of heights, but I wasn't going to stand at the bottom while the other three made the trip up.

From the top of Whitefish Mountain

The next day, we traveled to the park for a raft trip (scenic, not whitewater) on the middle leg of the Flathead River.  Our raft trip was guided by a young man named Ryan who was a perfect example of many of the young people, usually college students, who work the national parks.  They give tours primarily or are actually park rangers, and they do an incredible job.  Ryan was no exception. He was highly knowledgeable about the river, Glacier, and rafting.  We got to learn about the river and the park through this knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide.

Sueann and the Flathead River

The third day we took a 7 hour tour up the Road to the Sun in a Red Bus - among the original fleet (refurbished) that provided tours all throughout national parks at one time.  Now Glacier is the only National Park with red buses.  The top is canvas and can be rolled back to get the full impact of the overwhelming view.  Around every curve, we wowed at differences in landscape.  The rock formations gave us an idea of prehistoric times when glaciers carved what we see today.  One question asked was if when all the glaciers are gone, will the park name have to be changed?  No, the park is named for how it was formed, not for the glaciers that currently exist.  There are now less than 30 when in the past there have been as many as 135.  One side note...  the red buses are not driven by young guides.  The driver / guides are mature and seasoned with many miles of experience. 

On The Road to the Sun... from the top of the red bus

 Our fourth day found us exploring Whitefish, MT, an artsy town with many shops and restaurants - too many to get to in our short time in the area.  That evening, we took a ride on Lake McDonald in an antique wooden boat.  The boats were originally purposed to transport visitors to McDonald Lodge before roads through the park were constructed.  On a small portion of the shore, there are a few cabins that are privately owned.  These properties were acquired years before Glacier was made a National Park and ownership was grandfathered in.  To date, the owners could sell their cabin and property to anyone, and the sale is not governed by any particular set of rules. 

The Continental Divide from Lake McDonald / Glacier

Our last day was spent taking a tour of the park and surrounding area in a four seat airplane.  Again, I was not about to be left behind.  Although the park was somewhat clouded, we had the opportunity to get yet another perspective of this tremendous national treasure!  There 's something to be said about having a birds eye view of any location.  This view of Glacier National Park and surrounding area was close to spiritual.  The loud drone of the single prop air plan muffled by ear phones and the gentle dip of the wings one way or another added to the "other world" sense while we flew.  In the picture below, you can see a

 small lake.  Throughout Glacier there are many lakes, too many to name.  This particular lake did have a name - Birch Lake.  My brothers and I grew up on a lake in lower Michigan called Birch Lake so of course I had to text the picture to my brother Ted.  Small world

We said good-by to John and Sueann the next morning when we took them to the train station.  We couldn't be too sad though as in three short weeks we would see them in Elkhart, IN as we make our way east back "home."

Almost a year...

In about one month's time, we will complete our first year on the road full time in our RV - the Whale.  I've sporadically posted to our blog stories of our stops along the way.  Some places we visited are major stops such as national iconic spots - the North Rim, Zion National Park, Glacier National Park, Mount Rushmore, the Crazy Horse monument, the Badlands.  Some places we have visited have been off the beaten path, maybe not so iconic, but memorable just the same - McMinnville, Fort Worth, Vacaville.  We've focused on the places we've seen and the people we've met, and I've written little about "where" we are after this first year.  We've certainly learned a few things... about life, about each other, and about living full time in our house on wheels.

Places to stay:  We have found the more out of the way, rustic settings are preferable to those locations with cement pads, every day planned by a social director.  Army Core of Engineers parks and State Forrest Reserves and State and National Parks are our favorites so far.  We look forward to exploring boon docking in the west this next winter after the holidays.

Daily Routines:  We've found 200 miles a day, if that, is plenty.  We're retired.  No sense in rushing from place to place.  It's taken us awhile to break bad habits of driving non-stop to get to a location.  We both spent years working on tight schedules, few vacations, rushing to the vacation and rushing home, and we're now rarely drive past 3:00 p.m.  Early morning starts are still our choice as we are both morning folks and enjoy that start to the day.

Food:  We have a residential frig in our RV which means we can stock up on frozen items as well as carry produce etc for longer periods of time.  We now love to find farmers' markets and enjoy what is the going fare in a particular region.  Recently while in northern Montana we enjoyed huckleberries in many forms.  While in Oregon, we ate red raspberries and blueberries every day at reasonable prices.  We also discovered Dungeness Crabs, and stocked up on fresh salmon and tuna, which the fishery vacuum bagged for us - now "fresh" out of our freezer.  While in Florida, we discovered large green Avocados - much more tasty than the little "black" ones.  We buy fewer snacks than ever before, and before we stock up on something, we debate if we have room for the items.  In California, the produce overall was excellent.  The garlic in Gilroy is huge!

Routes:  We have always, and still do, prefer the two lane roads over the  Interstaes.  Highway 299 in CA, as I posted before is the twistiest ever.  Highway101 up the west coast is incredible, revealing a view of the Pacific around almost every curve.  In a large RV, I'd suggest planning a trip that you are headed north.  If you are the least afraid of heights, taking the inside lane going north is best.  We pay close attention to any tunnels on the route and tend to check out height restrictions before we get to the tunnel to avoid unhooking the Jeep and backing up or turning around.

Storage:  We still have too much stuff.  Periodically, we review contents and discuss what we have not used in a year.  Getting rid of things we own is still a struggle, even when we know we don't need it.

Planning:  We've still not settled into a routine for planning.  Before we left Elkhart, IN last fall, we had major places we wanted to see.  As we've made this first lap around the country, we have seen most, and we've seen many unintended, but there's not been a meticulous plan to the journey.  Part of the reason for that is we both are hesitant to give up the freedom that spontaneity gives us.  Just yesterday we came close to driving 251 miles further south to look at a miniature Australian Shepperd puppy.  We have the time after all...  We've learned to mull over our moments of impulse before acting.  Common sense prevailed on this one.  We certainly don't need two dogs right now.

Check list:  We don't have a written check list before starting a new leg of the journey.  We do have a mental routine check list before we move.  We've discovered attention to detail on the front side helps us avoid messes on the back side.  I asked my daughter months ago, "When do you think I will remember to secure the refrigerator door?'  Her answer: "When you get tired of cleaning up broken glass."  Out of the mouths of adult babes...  We do have a routine of banding doors shut, velcro straps for the frig and for the wine cabinet door.  We question each other before moving.  We both have things we are responsible for, but we question the other one about his/her stuff.  Although we do have some items of decoration, we've learned less is less mess when moving.  Plastic containers over glass are not always available, but are certainly preferable.  Plastic doesn't smash, nor does it rattle like glass.

Maintenance:  Jerry was in the automotive industry for years.  This part is routine for him.  He understands the importance of daily maintenance.  Tire pressures, fluid levels, changing oil, having the generator and diesel serviced regularly, wash and wax of the Whale, routinely wash the bugs off the front are the biggies.  When a more minor issue comes up, we deal with it now rather than later.  When you think about it, our house, unlike others, moves almost every day putting all systems in a bind.  Maintenance cannot be ignored. 

Relationships - ours and others:  Jerry and I have always been best friends first.  Living in an RV requires a solid sense of humor, less self-centeredness, and higher levels of communication.  No we don't  talk all the time, but we've fallen into a routine of regular "gut" checks.  We discuss our favorite places, if we are both still having fun, and if either of us want to do something else.  None of this is good unless we are both happy.  To date, we plan to keep on traveling.

Although we are not building long term relationships with those we meet on the road, we are meeting wonderful people.  Most are kind and helpful.  We learn a lot from other RV'ers and enjoy the time we have to share ideas.

We've learned so much about our country. U.S. history comes alive when you are able to be immersed in the location. A perfect examples is our stay at the Army Core of Engineers Park, Fort Peck.  This is the largest hydraulically filled dam in the world.  We spent time touring the interactive center and touring the power plant.  The history surrounding the Core formation, the time in history when the country was drowning in depression and the incredible things Roosevelt did to put Americans back to work was fascinating.  Every place we visit, we walk the history connected to a spot no matter how significant.  It's humbling to continue to learn in-depth about those who literally built this country.

Finally, a word from Maci, the dog...

I still don't like parking lots, loud semis, and strangers, but I love my people and love to be with them.  My most favorite are the rustic parks where there are thousands of smells.  Anyone with a brain can see when I am happy - tail curled high over my back, running and prancing as if I owned the property.

It's been a good year...

McMinnville, OR

From the west coast we headed inland to McMinnville to explore the wineries in the area and to visit the Evergreen Air and Space Museum.  This region of Oregon is conducive to growing the Pinot grape.  Although other wines are produced, Pinot is the top seller from the region.  We were able to enjoy visits to several wineries.  Our favorite locations were those where the rolling hills of grapevines are visible from the highest vantage point.                                                                  

On this clear day, we could see Mount Hood in the distance.  Our favorite "story" location was at Maysara http://www.maysara.com.  Three sisters, ages 27, 25, and 22, run the winery.  The oldest, with a degree in wine making - enology - from the University of Oregon, is the wine maker.  The middle daughter oversees international sales, and the youngest, who we talked with, is in charge of Oregon sales.

Another great story was of the young couple with three children under 10 who literally planted their grapevines themselves.  The vines are planted in blocks, and often the grapes in that particular block are used for a particular wine named after a child or another person in the family.  Our unofficial research indicates that female names are used primarily.  Those who are experts in all things wine often use very descriptive, lively adjectives to describe the qualities of the wine.  We asked one wine maker if the qualities of the wine were similar to the qualities of the child who the wine was named after.  He laughed and said yes!

After a day of exploring the local wineries, we spent the next day at the Evergreen Air and Space Museum.  Our primary interest was to see the Spruce Goose - the largest wooden airplane ever built.  Howard Hughes built and partially financed this giant plane's completion.  It was originally intended to haul men and equipment to Europe to aid in the efforts during WWII.  Because of it's size, few believed it would ever get off the ground...  of course except for Howard Hughes.  During an instrument test session Hughes did take off to the surprise of everyone there. The plane flew a very short distance about 60 feet off the ground.  That was its only flight.  WWII ended, and the plane was never pressed into service.  It sat in storage for years. Howard Hughes paid the storage bill which   was quite pricey.  The plane was finally acquired by the Evergreen group and now takes up a huge amount of space in the museum.  It's bigger than a football field! 

Howard Hughes' Spruce Goose / Evergreen Museum

Given the size of the Spruce Goose, it was impossible to get a picture of the whole air craft.  The plane sported eight engines, each with 3,000 hp, to power its flight.  This picture of one wing gives an idea of its massive size.

So why was Hughes' plane dubbed the Spruce Goose? The press mocked the construction of the giant wooden bird claiming it would never get off the ground.  They dubbed it the Spruce Goose.  Hughes hated the name and took every chance to say so.   The plane was actually not made of spruce at all.  It was constructed of birch.  One of many interesting points about the plane's construction is the use of many beach balls to make the plane buoyant as the plane is also a water plane.  The original beach balls are on display in the plane.

 

 The Evergreen Museum holds one of the best historical displays of aircraft from replicas of the Wright brothers' first airplanes to those utilized in the armed forces.  Many of the displays have stories of real people flying the plane which brings a very personal aspect to the importance of flight.

In addition to the air museum another building on the site it dedicated to space exploration.  The Evergreen group has secured quite a display of artifacts related to our exploration of space.  The third building on the complex houses an OmniMax theater where we were able to view a 3D movie on exploration of space with giant telescopes dubbed VBT's (very bit telescopes) by the scientists who use them.  Scientists from all over the world are working collaboratively in the Atacama Desert / Chile, about 17,000 ft elevation, using the VBT's to research the galaxies in deep space.  The 3D movie was included in our entrance fee to the museum.

All in all our day at the Evergreen Museum was well worth the trip!  After three days in McMinnville,  we headed east to Glacier National Park.